What is the snow load on my roof?
The design snow load for a building is set by the code in force at its address and confirmed by the local building official. The actual load on a given day depends on the depth, moisture and drifting of the snow, which is why the design figure and the real weight are different things.
The design figure is a number the code asks the structure to carry, and it is chosen with the local climate in mind. The actual load is the weight of the snow on the roof at a given time, which can be above or below the design figure depending on the storm and the wind. You cannot judge either one from the street, and you should not try to calculate it yourself from the snow depth.
To find the figure for your address, contact the building office for your jurisdiction. In Moscow that is the Building Safety Division. Outside city limits, the county building official confirms the figure. In Pullman and the Washington side of the map, the Washington rules apply, and the city's published criteria are the place to start.
Why does snow build up in some spots more than others?
Wind moves snow off exposed slopes and deposits it in the lee of walls, dormers, chimneys and parapets. Where two roof planes meet, the drift can be deep and concentrated, and the snow stays longer in shade.
A valley is a low point between two roof planes, and it collects snow sliding from both sides. A dormer or an addition creates a wall that catches drifting snow on the lee side. A parapet on a low roof holds the snow in place like a dam. The local building code recognizes these conditions, and they are the first places a technician checks.
Shade matters too. A north-facing slope or a draw below a hill stays cold and holds snow longer than a sunny slope. Because the Palouse has rolling hills, two roofs a short distance apart can behave very differently, and the technician looks at each roof's exposure rather than assuming the same pattern across the town.
Can snow damage a roof, and how would I know?
Snow can damage a roof when the structure is overloaded, when meltwater is trapped under ice, or when a slab releases onto the eave. Signs include sagging, cracking framing, doors that stick and water stains after a thaw.
The most dangerous signs are structural: a ridge or rafter that sags, a crack in a beam or a joist, or a wall that moves when snow is removed. If you see any of these, keep people out of the area below and call for an assessment at once. Do not climb onto the roof to check it yourself, and do not try to remove snow from a damaged area.
Water damage is more common and slower. A stain on a ceiling near a valley or an outside wall after a thaw points to meltwater that has found a path under the roof covering. The stain is a sign that the roof's drainage or its seal has failed somewhere, and the technician will trace the path back to its source.
Should I remove snow from my roof?
Removing snow from a roof is risky, and it is best left to a professional who can work safely at height. A roof rake from the ground can help clear an eave on a low roof, but climbing onto a snow-covered roof is the dangerous part.
Removing all the snow can damage the roof covering and the gutters, and it can leave the roof bare and exposed to the next freeze. Partial clearing from the ground, particularly at the eave where ice is forming, is a common measure. It should be done with care, and the person clearing should keep clear of the falling snow and the eave.
A technician can advise whether snow removal is needed at your address and whether the roof can take it safely. The decision depends on the snow load, the age of the structure and the condition of the roof, and it is not a question that a homeowner should answer by guessing.